Scotland Part 1

Louis after a long trans-Atlantic flight -- literally asleep on his feet

After a crazy amount of anticipation (Rosemary I don't think slept properly for at least a week prior to leaving) and several goodbyes to Austin friends, we finally got everything packed and ready for Scotland -- everything from long underwear to swim suits to full rain gear, we were prepared for any eventuality! Flight over really wasn't too bad the kids are old enough and perhaps media-underexposed enough to be totally absolutely mesmerized for five hours with the little TVs in front of the seat (except from a few shrieks from Louis when something in the movie happened that was scary -- like Lady in Lady in the Tramp getting covered with snow), James got first class seat on the way to Newark because the guy behind us wanted to sit with his son, and all went pretty smoothly. Nobody slept, which surprised me, but as I said, it was probably all too exciting.

Arrived at long last at Becky and Murray's and Chili's house Tuesday morning and of course had a wonderful warm reception. Murray had to go to work, but we all explored the house and garden and then took short naps and woke up the kids and James (that was the tough part) in time to go on a mini excursion out to ride a double decker bus. We got prime seats on the top front -- this was the most exciting part for the kids -- and went downtown and checked out the castle from the distance, which looked really beautiful perched up on a granite cliff on a cold rainy day, surrounded by lush gardens. Seeing the castle pretty much literally blew Louis's mind -- I almost could hear a snap -- and ever since he's been running around pretending to cut things and shoot things and throw boiling oil on things. After we headed back for a delicious chicken and chorizo stew Becky had sweetly made for us and then, unphased by the fact that it was still broad daylight out (it has been pretty much light until 11 or so and bright daylight by 4AM), crashed until about 12:40 the next day! Becky THEN came over from the Stockbridge flat, and made us breakfast (replete with delicious 'Burgh bacon). I tell ya -- this is the way to do international travel -- get your amazing friends to give you a house, stock it with booze and food in anticipation of your arrival, and then make you breakfast the next day.

Aunt Becky seems to be either really practiced with children or hasn't quite grown up herself because she really has the best ideas. Not only did she stock the house with some fun activities like beads and puffy paint, she got the kids to collect snails in the garden and make snail habitats on that first day. They were thrilled and have been collecting fresh leaves every day. Its hard to believe, but the snails actually organized and escaped one day -- I swear -- and so we had to put them back and shut the lid more tightly. She also gave the kids swords from her garden shed (stakes) and gave them full range to hit the bushes so they have been in charge of keeping seed in the bird feeder and "trimming" the bushes. 

Then we were off to our first adventure -- walking the canals and the Waters of Leith to the Stockbridge flat. It was quite incredible -- through all the old parts of Edinburgh, along a beautiful forest trail (see above and below).

I was proud of the kids for walking a good two miles along the canal without complaint -- it felt so GOOD to be cold finally since Austin weather was up to the 100s finally before we left. Of course it helped that Becky found Louis a proper sword, and then they could "help" walk Chili (poor dog didn't know what hit him he's had so much excitement). We've seen a lot of English cocker spaniels here and miss Xiaolum. Below are the kids sitting on a 500 year old grist mill imported from France, and as you can see, Louis is doing his Braveheart power-pose, the new norm.

 

At the end of the walk we were in fashionable Stockbridge, the neighborhood where Becky and Murray are renting a flat while we take over their house. It's a very hip neighborhood with lots of little boutiques -- excitingly many consignment/thrift stores -- and a cheese shop, bakery, tons of wine shops, and a butcher. We said hi to Murray and saw the flat, which is cute but small (the kids wondered why "their" house was so small and ours was so big -- ha!), and then headed to get them some groceries (since they had just moved in and only got us groceries!) and to get a snack of olives, bread, and Scottish cheese. We stopped the fish shop for James to ogle, and then to the fancy butcher who specializes in game (he had rabbits with fur hanging in the window) and bought a brisket! Of course James had to do some barbequing with Murray while we were here, since we bought them a Bradley smoker for their wedding -- almost as if we knew, on some level, that we'd be moving in some day...

Rosemary got her "favorite kind of eggs" -- quail eggs -- at the butcher. Then we walked to see the swans, and laughed at the sign that implored us to only feel them full-grain seeded artisinal bread and only in winter, and then off to a quite amazing pub meal of venison burgers, stuffed rabbit, and the more pedestrian fish and chips. And of course Scottish ale. 

Preparing the meat -- half for smoking for brisket and half for curing for pastrami.

 

We had to go see the castle the next day -- I think mostly James was excited about it (it is his fourth time to Edinburgh, and he still loves that castle). So we did another epic walk, this time up the hill from Stockbridge, stopping for a trip to the "Whole Foods" of Edinburgh called Real Foods for juniper berries and spices for meat-preparation (you'll note that much of our travels involves going to grocery stores, but they are definitely an interesting part of exploring a new place!) and a lovely lunch of mussels. The kids once again did great on the long walk, through City Centre, and to the castle! As soon as we got in the castle, three guards in kilts and hats with guns on their shoulders walked by, and Louis literally shrieked in fear and leapt into James's arms (see below). He cried, "Why do they have shooting guns?!?! Are they going to shoot the bad guys?!?!?" Poor sweet boy, he was genuinely terrified, and we realized that we had not bothered to tell him -- nor did he have any context -- that all this talk of storming castles and guys on horses and "bad guys" attacking was totally anachronistic. It took a while for him to calm down, but watching the guards take pictures with tourists and smiling as they changed off duty helped. He was a bit calmer by the time we took a look at the Honours of Scotland and the Great Hall which was lined with swords -- you can see a few more Braveheart poses by the time we left.

On the weekend, we took the train to the Game Fair in Perth -- basically a festival with vendors and demonstrations about hunting and fishing. We were promised falconry, wild boar to eat, and gun dog demonstrations, so we were in! Truly, riding the train alone would have been enough of a cool adventure for the kids (and me) but it just kept getting better. We rode across the Firth of Forth over a giant bridge the medieval town of Perth and then took a taxi to the Scone Palace, which had been the coronation site of the kings and queens of Scotland. It also happened to be a sunny gorgeous day -- at least in the low to mid 70s with full sun -- positively hot!

On the palace grounds was an AWESOME playground -- they get playgrounds right in Scotland -- no boring molded plastic. Instead an awesome 50-60 foot zip line! I tried it too -- it was FAST.

A sign showing some of the things that you can alternatively conserve and hunt in Scotland (I found the messaging somewhat confusing :-).

One of the vendors not-too-subtle way of grabbing your attention:

Highland Hog Roasts -- what was for lunch:

An unbelievably beautiful eagle who was unfortunately not too happy with the crowds (Louis was really transfixed by the birds of prey -- I love them too. I wish I could be a falconer!):

The largest owl I've ever seen -- a European owl:

Clay pigeon shooting! They had clays, trap, and -- a cool innovation that had to be every little boys fantasy-come-true -- a giant robotic plane that you can shoot with guns and when you hit it, it sparks a small fire. We watched that for a while, and then James and Murray shot some clays. I had no idea hunting was big in Scotland but there were a LOT of people at the game fair. I don't know if you can see in the picture below, but there is a girl who was shooting clays who was probably only about 9 -- the programme said, "Children welcome." Just had to get some evidence that they let children go shooting in Scotland, I don't think they even do that in Texas :-)

Relaxing in the shade with cider... shooting robots in the distance

We've had some really great times this week just relaxing at Becky and Murray's house, cooking, and for the kids, playing with Aunt Becky and Uncle Murray. Below they are helping pick lettuce she grew for our salad.

Manly grilling time:

Their beautiful solarium/conservatory and garden! It really is a perfect summer living area. We've already seen one very handsome fox in the garden, as well as many giant -- I mean giant -- pigeon like creatures called wood cocks (also for sale at the butcher)

As if all that wasn't enough activity, we also managed to make it to the shore for a beautiful walk, seashell collecting, and fun!

Louis seems to have something activated in his DNA by being in Scotland, and spontaneously starts building Standing Stones on the beach:

What wonderful hospitality we've enjoyed this week, and the opportunity to see the "real" side of life in Edinburgh that tourists don't generally get to see. Aside from just hanging out with Becky and Murray and Chili in their beautiful house, I've really enjoyed our long walks, and a taste of Scottish summer. The kids are completely in love with Becky, Murray, and Chili, and have been really enjoying themselves. Rosemary told me that she doesn't "miss Austin yet at all."